Fragrant

Starred review from July 28, 2014
In this sensuous and profound exploration of the history, science, and art of perfume, expert perfumer Aftel (Essence and Alchemy) seduces readers with an sensualism that only intensifies as her stories unfold. “The nose is idiosyncratically central not only to our sense of smell but to our sense of who we are, in our most primal appetites,” she writes. “For the idea of appetite pertains to... all the sensual and spiritual experiences that drive us, give us pleasure, make us feel more alive.” Aftel uses five “rock stars of the aromatic world” to acclimate readers to the world of scent: cinnamon for the exotic; mint for the homely arts of cooking, healing, and hospitality; frankincense for the transcendent; ambergris for the strange, wondrous, and animal; and jasmine for beauty and its inextricable bond with “beastliness.” The book is peppered with fascinating trivia, such as the Chinese practices of telling time with burning incense or a cat’s eyes. History and science are interspersed with recipes and tidbits (Deana Sidney’s jasmine-ambergris-chocolate drink, a 1920s list of butterfly fragrances) that entice readers to wake up their noses and perhaps engage in their own scent alchemy. b&w illus. throughout.

September 15, 2014
The history and mystery of the power of scent. Respected perfumer Aftel (Scents & Sensibilities: Creating Solid Perfumes for Well-Being, 2005, etc.) will greatly expand the knowledge of what readers think they know about fragrance as she chronicles the medicinal, culinary and spiritual uses of aromatics from antiquity to the present. "Scent, in a sense, is spirit: potent, invisible, omnipresent, elusive, capable of transforming experience of meaning," she writes. By blending "distinct personalities...textures and shapes," the author doesn't merely create pleasant aromas; she opens an olfactory portal to the sensual and spiritual appetites that make us feel alive and in the moment, and these scents touch us far deeper than a department-store cologne. Aftel is a skillful storyteller, and the dreamy quality of her writing will transport readers as they come to understand that scent is "one of the most accessible yet irreducible experiences of magic that we have." The author believes that it is important to "familiarize yourself with the nuances of the aromatic materials themselves" to dramatically increase your awareness and appreciation of it. To that end, she devotes sections of her book to the five basic scents on which nearly all other concocted fragrances are made: cinnamon, mint, frankincense, ambergris and jasmine. She considers herself and fellow "artisanal perfumistas" as craftspeople and historians and defines "artisan" as "learned from the manual labor of making something yourself....This knowledge comes not from writing and reading but by making and doing, and it is imprinted as much in the physical routines of the body as in the brain." Aftel welcomes fledgling explorers of blending scents to experiment with her recipes for solid perfumes and body oils-as well as more fanciful creations like "frankincense shortbread" or "jasmine-ambergris chocolate." Evocative, heady and overflowing with history and lore.

COPYRIGHT(2014) Kirkus Reviews, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

October 1, 2014

Aftel (Essence and Alchemy), a professional perfumer and fragrance historian, asserts that scent is essential to the human experience and uses the examples of five natural essences (cinnamon, mint, frankincense, ambergris, and jasmine) to investigate its history and uses. The book's five sections contain a broad overview of the historical applications of each fragrance, as well as an exploration of related scents, but the bulk of the content is devoted to the author's perfuming philosophy and experiences implementing them in her work. Aftel's vast knowledge and passion for perfumery are on full display here, and her personal anecdotes read like an old friend sharing a cherished recipe. In fact, the end of each section includes fragrance recipes in a format suitable for home perfumers. Illustrations throughout add visual interest, and the introduction gives a concise and fascinating summary of basic techniques of perfumery. VERDICT Targeted toward those new to the perfume world, this book is strongly recommended for casual readers interested in the basics of scent and perfumery.--Rebekah Kati, Duke Univ. Pr., Durham, NC

Copyright 2014 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.